1998 Subaru knock sensor

"desertdog5051" (desertdog5051) 08/23/2013 at 12:39 • Filed to: None

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OK, Oppo. Has anyone changed the knock sensor on a 2.5 L Subaru Legacy Outback?

Question is as follows: where is it, any special tools required, should I get a Subaru replacement or is a NAPA part good enough. Thank you in advance.

Takuro Spirit > desertdog5051 08/23/2013 at 12:42

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You will need:

10mm socket, extension, and a ratchet.

They're quite easy to do. Hardest part is unplugging the thing.

OH, and you might want to get a torque wrench to tighten it to its specific torque since it's a knock sensor and if its too tight or too loose it can affect its readings.

I'd get one from Napa if you're on a budget, also. They're not too expensive either way if I remember. And I think I used a Napa one on mine and never had an issue with it.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > desertdog5051 08/23/2013 at 12:47

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There was this one time I built an internal combustion engine out of all kinds of different types of lumber. Obviously, I had to use something hard wearing for the liner, so I got some ironwood, though I used it as a sleeve in a poplar block. The pistons were all right to make out of block balsa, but the connecting rods had to be made out of ash to keep from splintering. Heart pine crank and cam, of course, though the gearing had to be quenched maple. As to valves, rosewood did okay for the intakes, but I had to go exotic for exhaust - finally ended up with oiled ironwood there too. Unfortunately, while the temperature issues were manageable, the cork wrappers used for piston rings wouldn't take pressure or excess gas as well as high rpm, so I've had to lean the acacia and walnut carburetor out to the point I know I'm running too lean. Still, haven't had any problems yet, knock on wood.

/Yes, the whole thing was a lead up to a pun

/I am a bad person

HammerheadFistpunch > Takuro Spirit 08/23/2013 at 12:48

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With torque wrenches, I would say craftsmen or better, since cheaper torque wrenches have often been associated with bad calibrations. If you are getting a ft-lbs one with 5 or 10 lb increments it wont matter too much, but for inch lbs...definitely get something nice and calibrated.

ddavidn > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 08/23/2013 at 12:51

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Wow.

Nick, Drives a Cobalt LT > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 08/23/2013 at 12:52

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davedave1111 > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 08/23/2013 at 12:57

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Are you saying it wooden run?

Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 08/23/2013 at 12:58

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Nick, Drives a Cobalt LT > davedave1111 08/23/2013 at 13:00

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It wood run, just a little rough.

Takuro Spirit > Nick, Drives a Cobalt LT 08/23/2013 at 13:15

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Try running it on grain alcohol.

Nick, Drives a Cobalt LT > Takuro Spirit 08/23/2013 at 13:16

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Maybe plane the heads a bit too.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > davedave1111 08/23/2013 at 13:18

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It barked a little bit, then choked. The mulchture might be a little rich.

Takuro Spirit > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 08/23/2013 at 13:21

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Probably need to reflash the wood chip in the ECU

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > Takuro Spirit 08/23/2013 at 13:26

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Nah, I was thinking I'd rework the intake inners and it should run vine. Might do that around the time I shave the heads.

With a planer.

BECAUSE WOOD

SteyrTMP > desertdog5051 08/23/2013 at 17:04

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Doing it now on my wife's 97 2.5 Outback. 9 bucks and change on Ebay... I wouldn't worry too much about it being cheap or not, it's a pretty primitive part. Even 8 year old Chinese kids can make 'em.

desertdog5051 > SteyrTMP 08/23/2013 at 17:06

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Where is it located on the engine?

SteyrTMP > desertdog5051 08/23/2013 at 17:12

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Lemme see if I can find the Youtube... It's basically right next to and slightly behind the throttle body. It's on the actual block, you'll have to stick a 8" extension or so with a 12mm socket to get to it. It looks like a bolt with a thick rubber gasket maybe 1" in diameter. Bolted directly into the block. And remember to keep the bolt—replacements usually don't include the bolt.

SteyrTMP > SteyrTMP 08/23/2013 at 17:14

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Different year, but the same basic idea.

desertdog5051 > SteyrTMP 08/23/2013 at 17:22

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Much thanks.

SteyrTMP > desertdog5051 08/24/2013 at 10:51

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Any time. Have changed timing belts on two different generations, as well. Let me know when you reach that milestone...

desertdog5051 > SteyrTMP 08/24/2013 at 10:59

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I have replaced the engine in it. That was relatively easy.
Because it belongs to my housemate, I was not as attentive to it's maintenance as I would be to my own vehicle. The idler pulleys need to be changed at 70 to 75K miles. Interference motors do not take changes in cam timing well.

SteyrTMP > desertdog5051 08/24/2013 at 11:27

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Tell me about it. My wife's car has 275k on the odo and a newer 98 Legacy GT engine installed at some point. She traded something for it (without me being there), but lets just say it wouldn't run worth a shit. Had some blown headgasket telltales, but once I brought it home, I figured out that it's timing was for shit. I forget what the OBDII code was, but when I went to replace the timing belt, the belt was very loose, with the tensioner overextended, and the toothed pulley was missing all it's ball bearings. That left the outer shell of the pulley rubbing against the steel core, and by the time I found it, whoever had owned it previously had worn the center out of round. I can't believe it hadn't bent valves from the timing being all sorts of weird.

Oh well. When it was done, everything worked.

Still throws codes, but different ones. Was giving me an EGR code, so I cleaned that out, which was full of crap. The throttle body got cleaned out, as well, and today I am going to put the new knock sensor in. As I mentioned earlier, we got the 10 dollar Ebay special, since we be broke. That, and I hate to spend a lot of money on something that isn't going to last a long time, if the recipient of the aforementioned item won't outlast it in the first place.